The perils and pitfalls of jogging in France

I jog sometimes. Mates name that an overstatement. Extra slog than jog, they are saying. Nonetheless, I like to slide on trainers, work up a sweat, then anticipate the paramedics. I’ve jogged throughout Asia, Europe and North America. However right here in France I get incredulous stares. You’d assume they’ve by no means seen fuchsia sweatshirts or day-glo leggings.

Not many individuals jog the place I reside within the Dordogne Valley. It’s hilly. In French, Dordogne means land that oxygen forgot. The hills above our valley are excessive. From the highest, you may see all the best way to consciousness. Sherpas practice there low season. One doesn’t a lot run up these hills as do the stroll of the dwelling useless.

The rivers of France are excellent for jogging alongside. Nearly. Take the Dordogne River close to our home. It has an idyllic grime path alongside the financial institution. Low-hanging bushes shade it. One in every of them garrotted me the opposite day. Spreadeagled within the sylvan countryside, I may hear the river babbling. Or my throat gurgling – in that situation one can’t distinguish.

Lyon has two rivers. Some individuals ask why. I believe it’s so joggers have choices. The one different route goes straight up 10,000 steps to the Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourviere. The view – and the climb – are breath-taking. Many individuals cease to wish on the Basilica – for an escalator.

Paris has the final word river run – the Seine. From the river’s edge you may jog previous the Louvre, Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower. Surprisingly, not many do it. The rationale: cobblestones. Huge stretches of the Seine’s decrease financial institution are paved with cobblestones. Have you ever tried operating on them? Think about capturing the rapids in a buckboard. It’s the identical factor.

There’s a scene in “Charade” with Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn on a bateau mouche. They practice a searchlight on lovers cuddled alongside the banks of the Seine. Solely the clandestine {couples} aren’t canoodling. They’re rubbing ankles sprained on cobblestones.

However right here’s the irony: Not too removed from the Seine is jogger’s paradise – the Luxembourg Gardens. That is the beautiful, 56-acre, left-bank oasis beloved by Hemingway, Jean Valjean and Marie de Medici. That final one constructed a surprising palace within the Jardin that’s at present the seat of the French Senate.

Almost each jogger in France runs across the Luxembourg Gardens. With good purpose. It has leafy glades, beautiful fountains and patisseries throughout the road that open early. The trail across the Luxembourg Gardens is 1.3-miles lengthy. Police and navy recruits circumnavigate the course each day. So do 90-year-old grandmas. They’re all sooner than me.

So, I attempt to trick them. I jog earlier than dawn after they’re asleep. Sadly, the Jardin doesn’t open until 7:30 a.m. That leaves me operating the sidewalks exterior the stately wrought-iron fence. Even grand buveurs staggering down Boulevard Saint Michele after an extended night time zip previous at speeds I can’t match. I don’t thoughts. There’s no higher approach to see this stunning metropolis – or nation – than on foot.

Mike Zampa is a communications advisor and retired newspaper editor and columnist splitting time, alongside together with his spouse, between Southwest France and the San Francisco Bay Space